An "old" favourite

Second visit of the tour was to Dupont-Tisserandot in Gevrey Chambertin. This was the first estate I approached for export to Australia in 2008, and that was on the basis of a sensational 1964 Mazi Chambertin that I had enjoyed thanks to the generosity of a friend. The wine and the old label inspired me, and I wanted to know more about a producer that could pump out such a wine and remain unknown.

Didier's wife and her sister are actually the co-owners of the estate, having inherited it from their father. Didier is the driving force here and the person I always deal with. We have rugby in common, and I sealed our partnership on my second visit with a Wallaby jumper, although I'm not sure he wears it in his role as chairman of Gevrey Olympic Rugby Club.

Our visit coincided with the local oenologist coming to test the premiers crus and grands crus in preparation for bottling. Having recently been racked and sulphured they weren't showing much fruit or finesse, but having tried them in barrel a year ago I know how sensational they will be. The bunches were so ripe that for the first time Didier decided to use 25-30% whole bunches for the first time, to add complexity.

We also ran through the excellent value range: passetoutgrains (half Morey St Denis old-vine gamay, half Gevrey Chambertin pinot), bourgogne, Marsannay, Fixin, Ladoix, Gevrey Chambertin and Savigny les Beaune. The 2009 is already in Australia alongside the full range of 2008s.

I told Didier the 2008 Marsannay Les Echezeaux and Ladoix, and the crunchy, almost tart passetoutgrains had been well received by restaurants and wine bars. He agreed they were all looking good but said the Fixin had shut down and might stay that way for six more months. The Gevrey was still open, however.

It was a quick but satisfying visit, and I'll probably return to have a look at the vineyards and maybe try a couple more wines in late April. As it was, Didier had to get ready for a business trip to Brussels, so I let him go. Another piece of good news for those who had bought the 2007 Mazis Chambertin and wanted more -- Didier still has 60 bottles in the cellar so I'm going to buy another two dozen.